Billiard Rules: a Comprehensive Guide for Beginners

Like many games dating back in history, the exact origin of this game is difficult to determine. Note that while many locks pick predominantly back to front or front to back, there are exceptions, and you may find that the binding pin stack "jumps around" from the back to the front to the middle and so on. Unset/binding. The pin stack is the currently most misaligned one. The pin is not picked but is not the currently most misaligned one. Set/not-binding. The pin stack was already picked. A pin stack in a lock being picked might be in any of four states: Unset/not-binding. Because there are two independent shear lines, there is no way to control, or even tell, at which shear line a given pin stack sets. The pin stacks with regular pins will feel just as you'd expect, with a hard stop when the bottom pin hits the shear line. Get in the habit of making a systematic "inventory" of the states of the pin stacks after you set each new pin. Much of lock picking skill depends on testing pins stacks for the purpose of finding which to push up next and assuring that no pins are overset.

If you inadvertently push a pin up too far or are applying so much torque that more than one pin is binding, you may have an overset pin instead. Again, try to find and lift all the pins with the different hook picks without applying any torque. Find the binding pin and the non-binding pin. You should already be able to distinguish between an unset pin that isn't binding, an already set pin, and a pin that is binding. It becomes distinguishable from an unset/binding pin stack when you try to set it; while it binds, it does not set, no matter how much further it is lifted. Overset/binding. The cut in the pin stack is past the shear line. Raking, in contrast, is a class of picking techniques in which several pin stack may be set at the shear line simultaneously. Note that excessive raking with any of these techniques will tend to overset pins, so be prepared to release torque and start over from time to time.

An important skill when picking is to recognize when this has happened so you don't waste time before you start over. When you're comfortable picking the three pin lock (in both directions) move on to a fourth pin, and when you've mastered that, a fifth and then a sixth. It feels much as it does when binding and unset, but will not set (since a binding pin can only move up, not down). It moves freely up until it reaches the shear line, where it "hits a wall" and can move no further. When the energy transfers, the top pin moves up while the bottom pin slows down, and a gap is created between the two pins. Eventually, you'll be able to comfortably pick the locks with five and six pins installed. Finally, for a real challenge, try the Yale "Y1" keyway locks. The Y1 keyway is one of the toughest you are likely to encounter in real lock installations in the US.

One of the pins should be unset/binding ("squishy") while the other should be unset/not-binding ("springy"). Observe that after you set the first pin, your three pin cylinder has one pin in each of three different states: set/not-binding, unset/not-binding, and unset/binding. You may find one of the smaller LAB hook picks to be easier here than the larger Peterson picks, although you can usually still pick this keyway with the small Peterson hook. It will take a bit of practice to find just the right technique. Take your time to plan your shots and execute them accurately. You should always know which pin you're working on at any given time. But before we go into that, I just want to know if there are any questions; if I’ve made myself clear, and if there are any of you who find me utterly unintelligible? Except that there’s an electron at the edge of the universe and we don’t know where it is (apart from how far away it is), and so again we don’t know its gravitiational field. You don’t lose the faculty of discursive thought, you don’t get your mind permanently wiped out, in that sense.

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